The passing of Pope Francis reminds me that just a few months ago he made the first ever papal visit to Corsica where he was warmly welcomed by cheering crowds - it was just a couple of days before his 88th birthday. He led an outdoor mass in Ajaccio at La Place d’Austerlitz.  Corsica is particularly devout with around 90% of the population of the catholic faith. It was reported that Papa Francescu was particularly taken by how many children came out to see him and responded with , “Make more children. They will be your joy and consolation in the future”
Rest in peace Papa Francescu.

Dorothy Carrington is most famous for her book Granite Island first published in 1971 chronicling the almost half of her life spent in Corsica - a must read for visitors. A recent article in the Financial Times reminded me that she'd also written about the more mysterious side to the island, The Dream Hunters of Corsica. It is an excellent article for anyone thinking of visiting Corsica although you need to pay £1 access it - good value for money!

In recent weeks Le Figaro carried a story about the origins of Coca-Cola which suggests the original recipe may well have originated in Corsica. This of course is hotly disputed by the Coca-Cola company. However, it's an intriguing story and well worth a read. I won't try to regurgitate it here but go take a look for yourself at the Coca Mariani website. Vin Tonique Mariani is still on sale so if you see it maybe give it a go and you decide - is it the real thing?

In the late 1980’s I had the great pleasure of living and working for a while in Oslo - fortunately for me, ‘on expenses”! I lived in an old fashioned apartment which looked at the Holmenkollen ski jump and it was a super base from which to explore Norway at the weekends and during the holidays. We loved it! So, why then did we leave it more than thirty years to return?
Well return we did during May/June and what I can say is that it was well worth the wait. Blessed with glorious weather, the midnight sun and no crowds we camped for a month without a single advanced booking. Our route took the slow roads, tunnels, bridges and ferries from Bergen to Andoya island via the The Atlantic Road and Lofoten Islands. We made it some 350kms inside the Artic Circle before having to turn the van around and head south down the centre of the country and back to Bergen.
It is a truly stunning country with of course jaw dropping scenery and whilst it remains expensive we felt that many other places had caught up price wise. It is unbelievably clean and a visit to the Constitution Day parade in Alesund was a vivid illustration of both the country’s heritage and the national pride that is clearly dear to the Norwegians.
​If you've not been then we highly recommend.

Famed for the long distance walk the GR20, now there is also an established cycle route on Corsica the GT20. Some 600kms in length with 6,600m of ascent it's not for the feint hearted but, with the right kit, is accessible for many using a road or bike.
Corse Matin has an excellent guide book (in French) available at airports and newsstands. You get plenty of information online from the official Visit Corsica website  - just click here #GT20. Alternatively a guide (also in French) can be be bought from online retailers such as Petit Fute.
The are twelve stages commencing in Bastia and concluding in Bonifacio in the extreme-sud. Typically anywhere between 5-12 days riding depending on how much time and energy you have. I'd recommend not rushing.
The route is well signposted and the guides have accommodation suggestions but be wary as out of the holiday season it will be more difficult to organise.
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Weighing in at 2.5kg and with over 400 pages this outstanding tomb chronicles a detailed history of cycling on Corsica and that’s just from 1890 to 1960. Clearly there’s room for volume 2.
It’s a terrific book with some fabulous black and white photographs that the authors have sourced from a variety of archives. I've reproduced some on my gallery page.
Reading through it very definitely left me feeling that road riding and racing was much more popular here in the past than the present.
I’m hoping the authors won’t mind too much if I take some of their work as an inspiration for some future blogs about the history of riding here on Corsica as it's a rich and fascinating one.
The book is only available in French and I’ve not found it for sale outside of Corsica - another very good reason to come here and ride!

Cycling Weekly summed it up perfectly back in 2013, "The biggest cycling event in the world finally visited one of the best cycling destinations in the world".
That was when the Tour de France came to Corsica for the very first time on the 100th anniversary of the race. Stages 1-3 took in Porto-Vecchio, Bastia, Corte, Ajaccio and Calvi. The world was wowed by the majestic scenery and Corsica as a cycling destination was firmly placed on the map.
Ten years after has much changed? Probably not as much as was expected. Sure there are more riders around but the island has not developed into the destination that was hoped for. There are a handful more bike shops and there are a few more organised tours, there's even a cycling equivalent of the GR20. However it's a destination, if you're unsupported, that requires effort to get to and get around. For me that remains part of the attraction - the effort is without doubt rewarding and I think you'll get a sense of that from the Cycling Weekly article. 
So will we have to wait another hundred years for the Tour to return? Let's hope not but it is a huge logistical challenge and not an inexpensive undertaking for the island economy. And what route would they follow? Left to me - Bastia to Ile Rousse via Cap Corse, Ile Rousse to Corte via the D84 and Corte to Porto-Vecchio via the Col de Bavella.
Vive le Tour!

Well, the Platinum Jubilee is upon us and it got me wondering whether or not during her 70 year reign Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II had ever visited Corsica. A little research and I discovered that she and the Duke of Edinburgh did visit once way back in March 1956. They flew to Ajaccio, carried out a flower laying ceremony then took a launch from the port to join the Royal Yacht Britannia to start a brief Mediterranean holiday. Pathé News covered the visit and there is a super black and white newsreel here with excellent commentary and music - The Queen on Holiday 1956
​Of course the relationship between Corsica and the United Kingdom goes back a long way. In 1795 the new Corsican constitution put Corsica in a 'personal union' with the United Kingdom which amongst other things meant that there was a common monarch, George III. Who knew - I certainly didn't.
So that's Corsica's link with Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Next time, the King of Corsica.
​For now, God Save the Queen, Dieu Sauve la Reine.
Post script - sadly, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II passed away in September 2022.

It will be no surprise to hear that riding in Corsica last year was an unusual experience given the absence of tourists however, even without a pandemic the island remains an idyllic cycling destination and still largely undiscovered. The expected post Tour de France 2013 cycling boom hasn't really materialised in terms of making Corsica a mainstream destination like the Alps or Majorca. What is true though is that there are more cyclists around and there have been some developments on the island designed at making riding more accessible for all.
The E-bike is a big step forward as it enables more people to get out onto the undulating terrain. Bikes, both road and MTB, are available to rent from the outlets listed on my Information page.
Whislt pro bike racing has dried up BikingMan - the unassisted, ultracycling race series - has arrived. This is an annual 1,000km race which is into it's fourth year. With a time limit of 5 days and 18,000m of climbing it's not for the faint hearted. The 2020 edition was won in a time of just under 56 hours well inside the 120 hours time limit.
If ultracycle racing isn't your thing then there's the newly launched GT20 - La Grande Traversée. It's the cycling equivalent of the world famous hiking route the GR20. 600kms and 6,600m of ascent it departs Bastia, anti clockwise around the Cap and south to Porto. On, traversing the mountains to Corte via the Col Vergio on the breathtaking D84. South over Col Sorba to Ghisoni then up and over Col Verdi to Zicavo, Zonza and on to the finish in Bonifacio.
Finally one or two specific cycling routes are popping up with dedicated waymarkers. The Col de Battaglia in Balagne has some very smart new signs along a couple of different approaches showing gradient and altitude per kilometre if you get a chance to look up!

For those of you who regularly visit Calvi then you're in for a suprise when you next go to the beach in Calvi Bay. Gone are the fifteen beach restaurants and bars along with their cordoned off areas for sun bed rental. Literally gone, demolished, 'disparu'!
In France the 'Loi Littoral' stipulates that the majority of the coastline must be freely accessible to the public. For some years now Paillotes have been cleared along the French Riviera despite having been in situ, in some cases, for decades. This got underway a year ago on Corsica when the long established restaurant and bar on the beach in the Bay of Revellata was demolished after a 21 year stay. 
It's controversial as businesses and livelihoods have been disrupted. The establishments will return but as temporary buildings which will be removed at the end of each summer season. In the meantime, the beautiful beach is back and very much unspoilt - see for yourself at CorseMatin who have a wonderful photograph of the empty plage. 
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Joseph Heller author of Catch 22, served in Corsica during WW II. His time there was one of the influences for the novel which arrives on our small screens this week thanks to George Clooney's adaptation.
It is therefore very touching to note the news of the return, last Saturday, of the remains of Lieutenant James Lord who lost his life at the age of just 20. A member of the 66th fighter squadron, Lt Lord was flying a mission targeting gun positions over Italy in his P-47 Thunderbolt in  August 1944 when his plane went down into the sea off Corsica. 
Lt James Lord was listed as missing in action for 74 years until his remains were recovered during a diving mission last year. His flagged-draped coffin was received with full military honours when he finally returned home to Cleveland Ohio at the weekend.

I always recommend layers and a water/wind proof outside of July and August on Corsica. After the spring so far I'm adding full finger gloves and quite possibly snow chains to that list! The picture here is from the webcam on the Col de Vizzavona on the morning of the 15 May at 0830. The Col is at 1,163m and is one of the highest road passes on the island sandwiched between two 2,300m peaks.
The cold snap led to many villages recording new record low temperatures for second time this May. I haven't seen the rainfall figures yet but after a very dry winter we've experienced a very wet spring.
Riding was still possible close to and at the coast but with very strong winds and rain I was more of a fair weather rider than usual. Chapeau to the group with Pyrenees Multisport who were riding the Audax Club Parisien - a week they'll not forget in a hurry!
As I write, the weather is getting back to normal with plenty of dry, sunny days and pleasant temperatures in the low to mid twenties (hills/coast). 

In January we made the long journey to New Zealand's third largest island. Stewart Island or Rakiura is located some 30kms off the southern tip of the South Island over the Foveaux Straight in the roaring forties. Having got yourself all the way to New Zealand and then all the way down to the very bottom of the South Island it's just an exciting twenty minute  hop on a Britten-Norman Islander from Invercargill airport or a 1 hour ferry ride from Bluff.
Why go to Stewart Island? It's a remote, unspoilt, pristine, untouched national park that is 'off the beaten track' to say the very least. With a population of circa 400 and a modest number of visitors it never at any point felt crowded. Stewart, and the other nearby islands, have remained largely pest/predator free and hence the bird life in particular is magnificent in this perfect corner of paradise.
You can rent an e-bike here but we preferred hiking on many of the trails in and around Oban. We did a successful Kiwi spotting trip (which takes place during darkness) and the Ulva Island tour. Both were led by Stewart Island Expereince who have excellent guides.
We stayed at the Stewart Island Lodge which we'd highly recommend. The South Sea Hotel in Oban is a super spot for a relaxed dinner and it has a cracking bar - a perfect place to mix with the locals. Kai Kart must be one of, if not, the most southerly fish and chip shop in the world - awesome fish and chips!
There's no argument - it's a long way to get there but, in these times of heightened environmental and climate concerns Stewart Island perfectly illustrates how well careful long term conservation can ensure us humans and the natural world can co-habit harmoniously.
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It was Wicker's World and Alistair Cooke that ignited my interest to leave Liverpool, alone for the first time, to look for America in the early 80's. I spent three very happy, memorable summers at Camp Timber Ridge in Highview, West Virginia. After camp concluded I spent the end of each of those three summers exploring, on a very low budget, the America between the east and west coasts. What great discoveries and adventures were had!
I've lost count of the times I've been back since but it had always been to NYC and the odd ski trip. So it was with great expectations that we set off on a three week road and camping trip in October to explore California away from the coast. Our expectations were easily exceeded.
Escaping LA we headed into Joshua Tree to camp amongst the giant boulders then on through the Mojave Reserve to Death Valley to catch a sunrise at Zabriskie Point and a sunset at Dante's Peak. From Death Valley we headed to the Sequoia National Forest and Park via lakes Owens and Isabella - the 3,000 year old sequoias truly are a sight to behold. Then a hair raising drive into and out of King's Canyon with some remote and beautiful hiking before heading on to Yosemite to gaze at Half Dome and El Cap. Taking the stunning Tioga Road brought the unexpected treats of Lee Vining, Mono Lake and  Lundy Canyon before time was called and we headed back to the west coast.
The America we visited bore no resemblance to Trump's America we see on TV. Every last person we met was friendly and interested in what we were up to and, not a single one of them mentioned Brexit!  Such a good trip and already planning a return in 2019.

The good news is that from May this year Air Corsica will commence for the first time direct services from London Stansted to Bastia, Ajaccio and Figari. With nine flights a week these are the only direct flights to the island from the UK to include weekday departures.
The first flights get going on the 3 May and the prices look pretty reasonable - I've just randomly selected London Ajaccio return for a week departing on Thursday the 7 June and that comes in at £104.32. This  includes a 23kg checked bag, a 12kg cabin bag, a free drink, snack and newspaper. Very good value!
The cost of  bike carriage is an expensive extra and adds around £135 (Easyjet charge £84 for example)  to your air fare bringing the total to £240 return. However, the basic airfare is such good value that the total cost is competitive compared to say a week in Majorca with your bike at the same time of year.
Alternatively, you can rent a bike by the day from Bastia, Ajaccio, Calvi and Ile Rousse. Click here for rental shops.

This website is completely commerce free and I wouldn't normally write about a piece of equipment however my new bike merits a few lines.
Back in 2006 I got myself a Cannondale Synapse Triple 105 specifically to ride here in Corsica. I've long lost track of how many kms I've covered on this bike, mainly here but also in the Alps and the Pyrenees - it has been an incredible ride. Eleven years later the bike remains in great condition but my eye was turned by a mouth watering offer from Sigma Sport back in the UK. A 2017 Cannonale Synapse Ultegra with Shimano Di2 electronic gear change, disc brakes and a very welcome 26% discount. What a package! 
Cannondale market the Synapse as an 'endurance machine' and I'd say that's a pretty accurate description. My other road bikes are both Specialised and whilst they are great bikes, if I'm going to spend a half day or more in the saddle riding up and down hills then the Synapse works for me every time.
The disk brakes are a revelation and although they don't appear in the professional peloton  they are just brilliant here in Corsica on long decents - hand aches have become a thing of the past. The electronic gear change is very precise. I messed up and needed to make some rear derailleur adjustments post a flat battery - it's a clean and easy job using the gear change lever to make minute adjustments in adjust mode. It's the first time I've ridden on Mavic tyres which come in a standard 25c width which is perfect for here. I'd normally use a with a Vittorio tyre and Slime tube but, so far so good.
What, you may be thinking, has become of my beloved Synapse 105 - well I'm buying lightweight touring wheels and converting it to a touring bike for my 2-3 day escapades here on Corsica.

By no means do I consider myself a wine connoisseur but I do have plenty of consumption experience and know what I like.  One of the great joys for visitors to Corsica who enjoy a glass or two is the discovery of a huge range of indigenous wines. In all likelihood you'll have never encountered any previously as production is limited and mostly consumed sur l'ile.
A few facts and figures: there are more than 30 indigenous grape varieties; the main grapes are sciaccarellu, niellucciu and vermentinu; there are 9 appellations; 264 producers (including a lone english vintner)  and 370,000 hl of annual production. Wine production on Corsica has been traced back to the sixth century BC!
There's plenty of variety to choose from once you're here and we are still discovering new wines to try each year.
Vins de Corse produce a really useful free guide (in French and English) which you can pick up at any tourist office or go to their website. Look out in Balagne for the Route des Vins which is a fantastic ride or drive.

I was deeply saddened to hear on my return to Corsica yesterday of the death this week of Kiwi rider Darryl Queen who fell on the D81b between Calvi and Galeria. Our heart felt condolences to his family and friends. 
https://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/news/94248488/christchurch-man-darryl-queen-dies-after-cycling-accident-in-corsica-france

We had the very great pleasure of returning to NZ a few weeks ago - I'd forgotten what a wonderful place it is having not been there for some fifteen years. Now I could wax lyrical about the stunning scenery, uncrowded roads, deserted beaches, delicious wines etc but you can get that from any old travel blog or guide book.
I could tell you what an incredible cycle touring destination this is for the fittest of riders with plenty of time to invest but that's best discovered by you.
No, what struck me most are the very different contrasts with life in the northern hemisphere: there's lots of space and the air is fresher; striking up a friendly conversation with complete strangers becomes a natural thing to do; there's no road rage; motorised vehicles and bicycles comfortably cohabit the highways; there's no litter; there aren't any cigarette butts on the beaches; there are very few smokers; it's very rare to see a driver using a mobile phone and,  exercising outdoors is epidemic!
Why is it so different? It could be that I'm just getting older and less tolerant however I decided to conduct a survey with a sample of one - one of our boys  who lives and works in Auckland. What's the big difference between here and your home in the UK I asked. After some thought an unexpected but insightful response - 'people here in NZ have a much stronger sense of community and demonstrable civic pride'. Wow that from one of our boys! No wonder applications for working visas are at an all time high!
Just one mention for the scenery - the photo is East Island taken from East Cape lighthouse, the most easterly point in NZ and well off the main tourist trails. The whole East Cape is rugged and remote and many Kiwis we met had yet to explore here - head east from here and the next stop is the Chilean coast some 5,600 miles away!

'Earlier this month I was at long last able to put a line through one of my bucket list to do's and ski in Corsica. It is not widely known that you can ski here but when you consider the topography - twenty one peaks above 2,000m, the highest at 2,706m - then you'll appreciate why there can be plenty of snow in winter.
​There are three ski stations: Ghisoni, Val d'Ese and the newly reopened Haut Asco with a combined total of seven lifts and just over 10km (yes, ten) of prepared pistes - it's very much a niche piste skiing destination!
We skied at Asco where the long ago established ski station has reopened with a brand new button lift and two prepared runs. You can rent all you need and get a day ski pass for around 35 euros. There is a very nice restaurant and hotel at the base which is open year round - I highly recommend the Corsican soup.
The untapped attraction of snow en Corse is ski touring and off piste adventures - there are great rafts of untouched terrain and once you're there some of it easily accessible such as Restonica out of Corte. A guide of course, as well as the right equipment is essential given the remoteness. 
The weekend was topped off with some great hiking in and around the coast Revellata and of course the obligatory bike ride - now you can't do that in Val d'Isere in February!
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By no means is Corsica famous for its chemin de fer but it should be! Opened in 1888 U Trinighellu - 'little railway' as it is known locally - connects Bastia, Ajaccio, Ile Rousse and Calvi and runs for some 232kms. It really ought to feature in one of those TV programmes about great engineering endeavour with its thirty plus tunnels and no end of bridges and viaducts. These enable the line to climb up from the coast to the high point of 900m at Vizzavona.
The photograph shows Corsica's longest viaduct measuring 171m. It's a 'monument historique' called Le Pont Eiffel after the great Gustave Eiffel who constructed it in the early 1890s just a few years after finishing the tower in Paris. The line also runs along the coast between Calvi and Ile Rousse, in many places right next to the sea, and is a good way to explore one or two of the less accessible beaches such as Bodri, Davia and Sant Ambroggio.
Now it's important to note that bikes are not allowed on the trains. It's just a practicallity as there just isn't the space on these two carriage rail cars. Having said that I would highly recommend the section from Ponte Leccia or Corte to Vizzavona where the station is nestled in the forest. This is a beautiful spot with one or two places to eat and drink or stay, such as the hotel Monte d'Oro From here there are great walks in and around the forest and the GR20 passes by so there's also the option to get to some of the higher ground such as Monte d'Oro (2,389m). 
If you're a group or family of riders and non riders why not park up at Corte station and meet at Vizzavona for lunch. It's a 35km ride from Corte to Vizzavona and an hour on the train.
​You can find all you need to know at Le Train Corse website.

The Rallye de France, WRC Tour de Corse returns for a second consecutive year later this month after a seven year break. The drivers (and spectators!) will be hoping for better weather this year after unseasonal storms last October disrupted the event which was won by Finnish driver Jari-Matti Latvala - only the second ever Finn to won en Corse, the last being Markku Alén in 1983 & 84.
If that were not enough for rally fans there are three other rally events on the island all around the same time. I can't provide all the detail here so here's a list of what's on and where to see from with links for what will be a rally tour de force en Corse:

- Tour de Corse: 29 Sep to 2 October; the WRC 1-3 & JWRC, tenth round in the calendar
- Tour de Corse Ladies: 28 Sep to 2 October; a first with women only crews
- Tour de Corse 10000 Virages: 28 Sep to 2 October; Gt and supercars take on the 10,000 bends
- Tour de Corse Historique: 3 to 8 October; a rare opportunity to see and hear some absolute classic rally cars at maximum attack including Alén's Lancia 037 featured in the race publicity

Those 10,000 bends are going to see plenty of action, take a look at last years highlights here.

All but the very latest printed Corsica maps ever produced are now out of date!
The ubiquitous Michelin map and the blue IGN maps are all out of date - I suspect it will take sometime for them to catch up! Those clever online people at RouteYou, Mapmyride and Google maps are of course up to date.
Over the past few months the Collectivité Territoriale de Corse has quietly been removing all of the red Routes Nationales signage and replacing them with shiney new Routes Territoriales signage as shown in the picture. Gone is the N196 Ajaccio - Bonifacio and in is the T40, the N200 is now the T50 - all in all there are five principal T routes and a further fourteen subsidiary T routes. 
I'm in the process of amending my website text to reflect the new physical T signage whilst retaining the historic N signage, which is most likely what you'll still be searching for based on the maps you have to hand! Fortunately my route maps are current care of RouteYou.

I had the great pleasure of meeting the group from the Bicycle Adventure Club of America recently part way through their 16 day tour of Corsica. The tour organisers, Lucy and Randy, made contact back in late 2014 and we met up last year on Corsica as they planned and recce'd their route and what a fantastic route they are riding - Cap Corse, Balagne, Calvi coast to Porto & Piana, the D84, Corte & Restonica, Col de Sorba and Ghisoni, Bavella, Zonza, Sartene and Bonifacio. That's a route of some 800kms with 11,800m of ascent and only a single day with less than 500m of ascent.
It was great to meet up with the group for dinner in Calvi, give brief talk about riding on Corsica and ride out the next day on the Calvi - Calenzana circuit . 
So why the inspiration hashtag? Well these guys are hardcore bike riders - it struck me that cycling is a way of life for them - and they invest a huge amount of time organising and riding tours the world over. Take a look at their 'Our Rides' page - I think you'll agree that the title is just a little understated given the exciting rides on offer! But, the really inspirational thing is that the vast majority are retired and the elders of the group are septuagenarians - truly inspirational and not an ebike to be seen!
Chapeau Lucy and Randy and the BAC group.